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Special processes

Fake mercerised (mercerise-look) knit fabric: getting the shine and crisp hand without mercerising

How to get a mercerised look on knit fabric without mercerising: singeing, hot alkaline loading, enzyme, and fixing without softener for a crisp hand.

Fake mercerised (mercerise-look) knit fabric: getting the shine and crisp hand without mercerising

True mercerising is expensive. When the buyer wants the mercerised look at a lower cost, we create it in the dye house: singeing, a hot alkaline start, and no softener at the end.

At a glance

SingeingClean, glossy surface

80°C × 20 minHot loading

No softenerCrisp hand

FixingUnload with fixing

Mercerised knit fabric has two things buyers like: a glossy surface and a slightly crisp, firm hand. Mercerising with caustic under tension is expensive, so for a lower price point we build a mercerise look in the normal dyeing process instead. The fabric is not mercerised; it is made to look and feel close to it.

  • Mercerised fabric costs a lot. Fake mercerising gives the mercerised effect: a glossy look and a slightly hard, crisp quality.
  • The fabric is singed to clean the surface completely. It gets no softener: we unload it with fixing, so the fabric feels a little hard.

The route

Fake mercerised knit fabric process

Start: greige fabricfrom knitting
Greige inspectionholes, yarn faults, GSM
Batching
Singeingclean surface for gloss
Back sewingface side inside
Hot loading80°C × 20 min; wetting agent, demineralising agent, caustic 3 g/L
Scouringnormal
Enzymegood enzyme for a clean face
Reactive dyeingnormal process
Fixingabout 2 g/L; no softener
Slittingopen width
Stenterwidth, GSM
Compactingshrinkage
Final inspectionGSM, shrinkage, shade
End: finished rollto cutting
GreigePreparationDyeingAfter-treatmentFinishing
Flow chart: fake mercerised (mercerise-look) knit fabric, from greige fabric to the cutting table.

Step by step

  1. Singe the fabric so the surface is completely clean. That is where most of the gloss comes from.
  2. Load hot: 80°C for 20 minutes with a wetting agent (about 1–2 g/L), a demineralising agent (about 1 g/L) and caustic (3 g/L).
  3. Normal scouring.
  4. A good enzyme treatment for a clean face.
  5. Normal reactive dyeing.
  6. Fixing, then unload without softener, so the fabric keeps a crisp hand.

For the real process, see mercerised knit fabric dyeing.

Kamrul Islam
Kamrul Islam

Textile engineer with 14+ years in dyeing and fabric development. He writes every guide on Dyeing Solution from real production work. Full profile