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Dyeing processes

Cotton-viscose knit dyeing process: scour only, one reactive bath and no enzyme

Cotton-viscose is dyed in one reactive bath, with the viscose setting the limits: a scour without bleach, no enzyme, a hot wash no hotter than 80°C. Here is the process from our floor, step by step.

Cotton-viscose knit dyeing process: scour only, one reactive bath and no enzyme

Cotton-viscose is dyed in one reactive bath, with the viscose setting the limits: a scour without bleach, no enzyme, a hot wash no hotter than 80°C. Here is the process from our floor, step by step.

At a glance

1 bathReactive for both fibres

Scour onlyNo bleach, no enzyme

60°CViscose curve

80°CHot wash maximum

Cotton and viscose are both cellulose, so a cotton-viscose knit is dyed in one reactive bath, like cotton-modal. The viscose sets the limits: it is weaker, takes dye faster and shrinks more.

The route for cotton-viscose

Process flow: cotton-viscose knit dyeing

Start: greige fabricfrom knitting
Greige inspectionholes, yarn faults, GSM
Batchingone lot per batch; turned inside out if it stays a tube
Slittingopen width: never heat set, singed or mercerised as a tube
Heat settingopen, 180–190°C; if heavy GSM only
Singeingopen width; when no enzyme can be used and a clean face is needed; never on polyester faces
Back sewinginto a tube, face side inside
Load in dyeing machine
Scour70–80°C, no bleach
Reactive dyeingone bath, 60°C
Hot wash80°C max
Soaping & fixing
Softenerthen unload
Finishingshrinkage control
End: finished fabric
GreigePreparationDyeingAfter-treatmentFinishingOnly when needed
One reactive bath for both fibres. No enzyme. Dashed steps run only when the fabric needs them.
  1. Heat setting only for heavy GSM fabric, at 180–190°C.
  2. Scour only, without bleaching, at 70–80°C.
  3. Reactive dyeing in one bath for both fibres, on the viscose curve at 60°C.
  4. After-treatment: hot wash (never above 80°C), soaping, fixing and softener.
  5. Finishing with extra care on shrinkage.
  • Cotton-viscose gets only a scour, as we do on cotton-modal fabric.
  • No enzyme on cotton-viscose. If the buyer needs a clean surface, singeing can be done.
  • Heat setting only when the fabric is heavy GSM.
  • The scouring temperature is 70–80°C. That is OK, and better.

The scour runs at 70–80°C, the same mild temperature as on 100% viscose. That is enough to clean the cotton part too, and it keeps the viscose strong.

The dyeing curve

Reactive dyeing, cellulose part (cotton-viscose)
The viscose curve: everything at 60°C. Salt in 10%, 20% and 70%, each over 15 min with 10 min run; salt sample before the soda; soda in 10% and 90%.

Both fibres go into the same bath. Because the viscose takes up dye faster than the cotton, the salt and soda go in portions and the salt sample is checked before the soda, while there is still room to correct the shade.

Common fault: scouring at cotton temperatures. At 98°C with strong alkali, the viscose swells and weakens, and the fabric comes out with crease marks and lower strength.

After-treatment

Hot wash at no more than 80°C, then soaping, fixing and softener, as on all cotton and viscose fabrics.

Limitations of cotton-viscose

  • Strength. Viscose is weak, especially when wet. Blends with viscose can lose strength, and shade variation can come up between batches and between the two fibres.
  • Shrinkage. Viscose shrinks more than any other fibre we finish; plan compaction and overfeed for it.
Kamrul Islam
Kamrul Islam

Textile engineer with 14+ years in dyeing and fabric development. He writes every guide on Dyeing Solution from real production work. Full profile