Ponte roma is a firm, stable double knit used for trousers, skirts and jackets, and in our records it is mostly polyester-viscose with elastane. Here is the route for each fibre, from greige ponte to the cutting table.
At a glance
32Parts in our records
280Median required GSM
55%Within GSM tolerance
94%Polyester-viscose ponte heat set
Ponte roma (ponte di Roma) is an interlock-based double knit with an extra set of courses that make it thicker and firmer than plain interlock. Both faces look alike, with a fine horizontal line on the face. It holds its shape well, which is why it is used for trousers, skirts and structured jackets.
| Type in our records | Parts |
|---|---|
| Ponti Roma | 8 |
| L/Ponti Roma | 7 |
| Y/D L/Ponti Roma | 4 |
| Yd Ponty | 4 |
| Y/D Ponty | 2 |
| Ponty | 2 |
| Ponti Roma Interlock | 1 |
| Yd Ponty Roma | 1 |
By fibre: what our records show
| Fibre or blend | Parts | Median required GSM | Within ±5% GSM | More than 5% light | Median length shrinkage | Median width shrinkage | Heat set |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Polyester-viscose | 17 | 290 | 35% | 41% | 7% | 2% | 94% |
| CVC / PC | 5 | 260 | 100% | 0% | 6% | 2% | 100% |
Polyester-viscose ponte makes up 17 of our 32 ponte parts; 94% of it is heat set and 35% finishes within GSM tolerance. Some ponte is yarn dyed; that process is covered separately.
Our records hold fewer parts of this fabric than of the common knits, so read the figures as a guide, not a rule.
What makes ponte roma different
Ponte roma must come out with a firm, flat surface, a stable width and good recovery. Heat setting matters most when it has Lycra or a synthetic blend.
Compared with plain interlock, ponte needs tighter control of heat, width and compaction to keep its firm structure and avoid crease marks.
Polyester-viscose ponte is dyed in two parts like CVC: the polyester part with disperse dye at 130°C and reduction clearing, then the viscose part with reactive dye after a mild scour. Once the polyester is dyed, the stenter runs at 100–110°C.
Its GSM is sensitive to two things at once: viscose relaxation, and the recovery of the polyester and Lycra. So GSM changes after finishing. It is controlled through stitch length and Lycra feed in knitting, then heat setting, width, overfeed and compaction.
The sequence before the dyeing machine
Every chart below follows the same sequence before dyeing. Steps a fabric does not need simply drop out; they are drawn dashed.
- Greige inspection, then batching. A fabric that stays a tube is turned inside out here.
- If it needs heat setting, singeing or mercerising: slitting first. None of these is ever done on a tube.
- If it needs heat setting: heat setting in open width.
- If it needs singeing: singeing in open width, after checking the flame cannot damage the fabric.
- If it is mercerised: mercerising, then drying.
- If the fabric was opened: back sewing, to make it a tube again with the face side inside (the loop side, for terry).
- Loading into the dyeing machine, then scouring, bleaching and dyeing, single part or double part as the fibre needs.
Flowcharts by fibre
Polyester-viscose ponte roma
In our records: 17 parts, 35% within GSM tolerance, median length shrinkage 7%, heat set 94%. Full process: Polyester-viscose dyeing process.
Dyeing and finishing: Polyester-viscose ponte roma
CVC / PC ponte roma
In our records: 5 parts, 100% within GSM tolerance, median length shrinkage 6%, heat set 100%. Full process: CVC / PC dyeing process.
Dyeing and finishing: CVC / PC ponte roma
Common faults and buyer complaints
GSM and width variation. Control knitting, then heat-setting width and finishing.
Shrinkage. Heat set, relax and compact correctly.
Crease marks. Reduce tension in the machine and load the fabric straight.
Spirality or skew. Balance tension through finishing.
Pilling. Control yarn quality and finishing.
Uneven surface. Control heat and compaction.
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